April 16, 2014
How many wine drinkers think of viticulture as a form of warfare? Not many, I suppose. But a third of the way through Wink Lorch’s book Jura Wine is a list of events labelled “A century of battles: 1850 - 1950.” It is a long list.
Around 1850, the development of the railways led to a great expansion of winemaking in the south of France, threatening growers in the north. Especially affected were marginal areas like the Jura, a small area east of Burgundy, nearly in Swiss territory. There, viticulture was more difficult, crops less abundant.
In the years following the arrival of the railroads, there was a succession of disasters, both ...[More]