March 14, 2015
Thirty or Forty years ago, one had to be an optimist to farm grapes in the Saar. As Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson put it in The World Atlas of Wine: "The battle for sugar in the grapes rages most fiercely in this cold corner of the country." Only three or four vintages in each decade were warm enough to produce quality still wine. In the remaining years, the wines were sold in bulk or used to produce sparkling wine, or "Sekt" as the Germans call it.
One would think the Saar would be warmer than the Mosel, more reliable for grape growing. It is further south after all, nd "south" equals "warmer," in Germany as in the U.S. But this cursory interpretation of geography fails to consider the location of the vineyards in the respective … [More]